If you’ve ever wanted your own rapid-fire gun but didn’t want to burn a hole in your wallet from ammo costs, you’ve probably come to the same conclusion as me: 22 Long Rifle. It’s cheap and relatively plentiful, depending on what part of the country you’re in. You’ve no doubt looked at the price of a full-auto, transferrable gun and realized you can’t or won’t pay that much. So what do you do? Build one yourself!
Before going into the details of how to build this gun for yourself, rest easy knowing that this gun is in 100% compliance with the National Firearms Act of 1934 and the Gun Control Act of 1968. As much as the ATF would like to send their goon squad to knock down your front door in the middle of the night, all they can do is clench their fists and gnash their teeth.
I first started out by taking an ordinary Ruger 10/22 and upgraded to an ATI Strikeforce stock. Any AR-style stock will work, so long as the stock can be adjusted to the fully closed position as seen in the video.
To maintain the accuracy of the rifle, you’ll need to be able to steady it. Rapid fire, however, will require the use of your dominant hand. To free up the dominant hand you will need a vertical foregrip. While you can use any foregrip, one that angles out provides maximum stability without putting uncomfortable pressure on your wrist. If your rifle has Picatinny rails on the side, feel free to try a standard foregrip mounted horizontally. I chose the Vism 45-degree angled foregrip since it was cheaper than trying to add side rails, and it turned out to be perfect.
It’s recommended to use a riser so any optic you put on the rifle will bring it up to your natural line of sight. I zeroed the rifle at 25 yards to confirm accuracy. The riser on mine is roughly 3/4″ tall and works perfectly with the Bushnell TRS-25 I mounted on it. Yes, this setup will allow you to actually aim and not simply spray and pray!
Lastly, the piece you’ll need to make the rapid fire magic happen is the BMF Activator. It attaches to the gun’s trigger guard with two metal or nylon screws (Your choice, depending on whether or not you don’t mind marring your trigger guard). I put a thin sheet of metal between it and the trigger guard so the metal screws would be tight and still wouldn’t mar the trigger guard. With one full crank of the handle, this device pulls the trigger four times. Your effective cyclical rate will be about 500RPM on the low end, all depending on how fast you can turn the handle.
It took me a while to work out the kinks on this project. The biggest obstacle was figuring out how to shoulder the rifle with the support hand, so the dominant hand can turn the crank. I knew that once that was solved, the gun could be aimed instead of hip fired. It was certainly worth the time and effort. It’s fun and cheap to shoot, and I’d recommend it to anyone.